Garden maintenance can be one of the more annoying things about gardening. Weeds are inevitable in the garden, but some are more noxious than others. I blogged previously about poison ivy. Another weed, wire grass (Bermuda grass), is even more troublesome.
It grows by rooting runners and underground rhizomes and is almost impossible to get rid of. It has very long roots so no matter how deep you dig, you never seem to get it all. If you’ve ever tried to pull it, it just breaks off and the plant takes that as a green light to grow more.
Wire grass is the one reason we occasionally use Round-up on the mulched paths. It’s the only thing I know of that will kill the roots. You don’t want Round-up sprayed in your garden bed because it is a dangerous chemical and will kill anything green it comes in contact with.Last year when I noticed wire grass coming up in my bed, I used a Q-tip to put Round-up on the sprouting weed. One of the issues in community gardens is that not everyone keeps their gardens weeded. Weeds get tall, seeds are blown into neighboring beds and wire grass creeps. Good bed maintenance makes good neighbors.
Our Watering System
On a recent visit to the garden I noticed the spigot on the hose near my bed had been left open. (See the wire grass creeping out of a neighboring bed. That bed was weeded after I took this photo, but it’s almost impossible to get it all. You can see how it creeps out into the path.)
Below is the way the spigot should be left. Note the closed handle. This will extend the life of our hoses and eliminate leaks so thanks for closing the water spigots.
The recent rains have perked up our veggies, but also the weeds. Please be a good neighbor and keep your bed tidy. Pulling any weeds in the mulched paths will also reduce the need for Round-up.
After I posted about finding poison ivy in my garden bed, Master Gardener Lin Clineburg (bed #10) sent me this photo of poison oak. I’ve lived in Maryland for more years than I’d like to admit and have never seen it. The leaves do look like oak leaves. People tell us it’s around on the Eastern Shore. Have any of you seen poison oak in our area?
This photo is poison oak in the fall. Gorgeous color, but I don’t want it in my yard.
Apparently I didn’t put enough steam holes in this spaghetti squash. I heard a bang from another room and when I investigated (thinking home invasion…should I call 911) I found the microwave door blown open and an exploded squash inside. The squash blew right off the plate it was on. Fortunately most of the squash was still inside the rind and the microwave still worked. Clean up just took a few minutes and the squash was delicious at dinner served with a bison red sauce.
A learning experience. Microwaving (for me) is the easiest/quickest way to cook hard skinned squash, but if you are cooking them whole, make sure to make adequate holes for the steam to escape.
Elizabeth Beggins alerted me to this problem which she is seeing in a number of beds in the community garden. The following information is from Johnny’s Seeds. Diseased plants should be pulled and put in the trash. Do not put diseased plants in the compost bins.
Basil Downy Mildew is a new disease to North America and Europe. It was first reported in Europe in 2001 and was identified in the U.S. in Oct. 2007. In 2008, downy mildew was confirmed in both field-grown and greenhouse-grown basil in many states including FL, NC, PA, NJ, NY, MA, KS, and MO. Prior to these outbreaks it was only known to occur in Uganda back in the 1930’s. To date the pathogen has been reported in 38 states throughout the U.S., including Hawaii, with devastating results.
DESCRIPTION: The pathogen (Peronospora belbahrii) is a water-mold (oomycete) that can be spread by contaminated seed, by infected basil leaves, and as wind-dispersed spores. Spores of the pathogen are capable of being dispersed long distances. Infected basil leaves produce an abundance of spores. Thus the pathogen can spread widely once introduced to an area. The optimum environmental conditions for disease development occur at high humidity levels with extended periods of leaf wetness.
SYMPTOMS: Basil Downy Mildew can easily be mistaken for a nutritional deficiency. The infected leaves develop a diffuse yellowing on the top of the leaf separated by veins. On the underside of the leaves, distinctly vein-bounded patches appear. When spores are produced, a characteristic purplish gray, fuzzy growth on the underside of the leaves is evident.
For a gallery of photos see link below. http://www.longislandhort.cornell.edu/vegpath/photos/downymildew_basil.htm
PREVENTION: At this time no commercially viable tests are available for the detection of infested seed. Prevention is the best course of action in all cases. Foliage should be kept dry. Use drip irrigation or bottom-watering wherever possible. Set up plantings to ensure good airflow within and between rows. Harvest the crop early if the disease is present or the risk of infection is high due to disease presence in the area. Carefully remove and destroy any infected plants. Fungicide applications need to begin before the disease is present to obtain effective control. Few products are labeled for this use. Additionally the post-harvest interval and label restrictions limit the use of many fungicide materials. Actinovate AG®, MilStop®, and Oxidate® are all OMRI-approved materials labeled for use on herbs to suppress foliar diseases including Downy Mildew.
Poison ivy hides among other weeds and a chance encounter can make you miserable. I was weeding the other day in my community garden bed and reached for something green. Fortunately I stopped myself before grabbing a very unwelcome “weed.”
This shiny three-leafed plant is distinctive and it was growing right in a row of sun scorched beets that are begging to be pulled out. Birds eat the seeds and that’s probably how this was planted.
I have had horrific bouts of poison ivy in the past and am very careful around it. Here is my solution to the occasional plant I find. Our local newspaper is delivered on rainy days in a long plastic bag. I save these for all sorts of gardening chores. For poison ivy I slip my arm into the bag, pull the ivy, and turn the bag inside out over my hand. My skin never gets close to the oils on the plant which cause the oozing blisters.
Use throw-away protection on your hands or over your gloves. The oils from the plant can get on your garden gloves and be transferred to your face. That observation is from personal experience. If you reach for something that even remotely looks like poison ivy, protect your hands and arms when pulling it.
That spaghetti squash cradled in a panty hose sling finally seemed ripe enough to harvest. I’d never grown spaghetti squash before so I had to go on line to get advice about when to pick them. Apparently when the rind is tough they’re ready. They are, after all, a type of winter squash. My thumb nail didn’t make a dent so I carefully undid the panty hose and brought my squash to the kitchen.
I pricked some steam holes in it and put it in the microwave for 12 minutes. I could have baked it in the oven, I suppose, but it was too hot. I let it cool for awhile and then cut it in half and scooped out the seeds.
The flesh comes apart in strings and I use it as a substitute for wheat pasta for my gluten intolerant husband. It is way better than it looks. I put spaghetti sauce on it, but it would be good with just butter, salt and pepper and maybe some cheese on top. I harvested two squash from this vine and there are three babies on the way. Anybody know how many squash you can expect to get from a vine? I want more than five, but that may be totally unrealistic.